Growing up, i spent every waking moment at the beach or more accuartely in the water. I didnt care about sports, clothes, cars, or girls i just wanted to be riding waves all day long. Me, the Seed and lets call him WAGe would wake up every morning to check out the surf and Dawn Patrol. I remember calling the surf report...the jetty is breaking at chest high, Assateague off shore wind three feet, Indian River Chest high, 94th street ankle slappers...every morning calling that recorded message...we didnt care if it was a like a lake or a hurricane coming uo the coast we were going to be in the water...and you know what i wouldnt have had it any other way...
Dawn Patrol...
Putting on a partially wet spring suit, in the early dawn fridgidness and diving into cooled water is not pleasant until you push your board under the first wave, pull down to the board and pop up behind a wave. You swing your head around to get the hair out of your face and bam you are fucking ready to go. You paddle into the line up and look over and see your friend and cousin as the sets begin to build your blood rushes...the sun is coming up and you see the sets coming...paddle, paddle, paddle and it down the face of the wave...the best was that its 6am and we are whopping it up. You paddle for your first wave, catch it and hear the hoots and holler from your friends....or even better getting tubed in the am sets the mood for the day. I loved watching my friends surf. It was pure joy.
Dawn Patrol 2...
Driving down coastal highway up to indian river...chest high report...me my brother and debo...the police balrring from the dark blue golf..."Well, someone told me yesterday That when you throw your love away. You act as if you dont care. You look as if youre going somewhere But I just cant convince myself I couldnt live with no one else And I can only play that part And sit and nurse my broken heart, so lonely. So lonely, so lonely, so lonely i feel so alone." Why was i in the hatch back?? popping out...this morning i remember having caught a wave in and padlding back out. From the line up I hear, "outside!" I see a nice set rolling in and only two people up...i catch the last wave of that set and it is beautiful...overhead easily, glassy, and hallow...the perfect ride.
You know what happened after dawn patrol...Layton's...thick ass french toast or 7-11 chili cheese dogs...mainly layton to recall the day and refuel for the evening sets....
Dawn Patrols rule!
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